Style gurus in the frame

September 13, 2024 Sarah Daniell

In 1901, Teddy Roosevelt was the first US president to be photographed wearing spectacles. Pince-nez, to be precise. Spectacles were not yet considered a statement piece but a functional necessity. It would be decades before specs would be elevated to ‘fashion statement’.

 

Malcom X, the US civil rights activist, had several pairs of the classic ‘50s browline specs and, 70 years later, the style is known simply as Malcom X glasses. The images of cultural legends such as John Lennon and Diane Keaton were defined by their lenses. Sir Edmund Hilary wore Swiss Army safety goggles when he summited Everest with Tenzing Norgay in 1953, and similar vintage safety styles still attract quite a following on Etsy.

 

 

Malcolm X

 

Eyewear has gone from cringe to cult – a style virtue. Consider actor Idris Elba, who wears them almost too well in the US version of The Office, or Jennifer Aniston in The Morning Show. Celebrities, whether politicians or performers, fleeting or enduring, arguably influence trends. But what weight do style gurus give to eyewear in the guidance they give to their clients?

 

 

Nora Swann - personal stylist and entrepreneur, winner of the 2022 Kanumea Afine Loto Toa – Pacific Woman in Business Award

 

“In the last few years I’ve noticed an increased interest from clients in eyewear, so I’ve learnt more about it and how it can enhance someone’s style. I’ve also now included eyewear in the classes I run. I teach my students and clients the importance of knowing their face shape because it helps to identify which hairstyles, earring sizes and shapes and eyewear suits them. I find out what my client’s personal or professional style is and then, accordingly, recommend the frames, rims, colour and print of the eyewear.

 

 

Nora Swann. Credit: James Yang

 

“Sometimes I suggest someone purchases more than one pair for different occasions, work or play. People have their own personal style, which can differ from their workplace, so some like to have eyewear that suits the different environments they are in. Others like to invest in one good quality pair of glasses they can wear across the board. This is generally a common style that works with most looks. Then there is the ‘extra’ client who opts for eyewear to make a fashion statement. They have several pairs for different occasions and their day-to-day eyewear screams ‘all eyes on me’.

 

“I always consider what suits the client, 100%, whether chunky versus light, cat eye versus aviator. My job is to ensure my clients look and feel their best, so it’s important that I get to know them personally, so I can help create ensembles that resonate with them. Then, when they look in the mirror, they can say ‘yes, that’s the real inner me being represented externally’.

 

“Travelling helps me to broaden my creativity and knowledge for when I’m styling others. I’m inspired and always observant of style and fashion when I travel and I take note of trends and love seeing ensembles I haven’t seen before. When I first became a stylist, eyewear was an afterthought accessory. It wasn’t like earrings or necklaces, which people usually work with. Nowadays eyewear really can be the statement piece of an entire outfit and there’s a lot of choice. I love seeing polished pieces from head to toe that include eyewear. Personally, I had maybe two to four pairs of glasses to begin with. But I now have 10-plus pairs that I use quite often as a feature rather than for their function. If the ensemble looks better with glasses, then yes, I’ll even wear glasses indoors because it’s part of my overall look.”

 

 

Monique Moynihan - Sydney-based stylist and creative director

 

“If a client regularly wears eyewear, I definitely consider styling it because glasses can reflect a person’s personality and style, just like shoes or a handbag. A person’s face, particularly their eyes, are the first thing you really notice when you first meet someone.

 

“Framing a person’s eyes with the right eyewear that not only suits their face, but also their personality, is important. Different people will be attracted to different styles. For more outgoing and daring personalities, I’d be more inclined to recommend bold colours and patterns, whereas for clients with a more classic aesthetic, I’d opt for black, tortoiseshell, neutrals and metal frames in classic styles.

 

 

Monique Moynihan

 

 

“I think for those who wear spectacles 24/7 it’s a great idea to have different options for different outfits and moods. Most people have different shoes, bags and hats for different occasions, so it makes perfect sense for spectacle wearers to own multiple pairs. I might recommend someone have a classic streamlined metal or tortoiseshell frame for work, a fun-coloured pair for weekends or going out and a more durable/flexible pair for outdoor activity.

 

“I always recommend purchasing a style that suits a client’s face over choosing fashionable trends. Once we’ve determined their face shape, it’s always good to try a variety of styles (for example, aviators or oval) to see what shape is going to balance their features best and ensure they aren’t too wide or narrow or dominant. Skin tone, hair colour and occasion should also be taken into account. For instance, I’m Eurasian so I naturally have a smaller nose bridge, high cheekbones and round face. This means I can only wear glasses with nose pads. As much as I love a chunky framed wayfarer or aviator style, they just don’t suit my face. Once I discovered how flattering a cat-eye shape was on me, I experimented with different materials and frame colours, rather than trying to go with styles that just didn’t work with my face shape.

 

“The last time I travelled to Europe, I noticed so many women, particularly in Barcelona and Rome, who were not afraid to wear bold-coloured and patterned glasses. It really made their personalities appear so bright and confident and it was such a stark contrast to the neutrals I was used to seeing back home in Australia. It really made me step out of my comfort zone and try coloured frames for different outfits. I tend to be attracted to fun patterns and pops of colour in my clothing, it made sense to try it with my eyewear too.

 

“I don’t think glasses are perceived as nerdy or bookwormy anymore; rather, they’ve become very much a fashion accessory, as much as sunglasses. Most high-fashion brands do a spectacle line, which has definitely helped elevate the status of the average spectacle.

 

“With regard to trends, I think there’s a lot more focus now on sustainably made eyewear and recycled materials, which I think is great. Also standing out at the moment is vintage, which I have always been a fan of. A good-quality pair of glasses is not cheap; they should be an investment and made of quality materials to withstand daily wear, rather than being disposable every season.”

 

 

Caitlin Taylor - an Auckland-based personal stylist and coach

 

“Many of my clients are interested in both glasses and sunglasses so, if needed, it can be a part of my work with them. Eyewear, as much as it is about function, is also a great opportunity to accessorise and have fun. I work with my clients to identify their unique personal style and then we’ll look for frames to reflect that. Often clients will choose a couple of pairs they can switch in and out with different outfits, depending on how they are feeling (I even have two pairs of reading glasses that match different outfits!).

 

 

Caitlin Taylor

 

 

“Face shape is also something to consider when choosing frames. The size and shape of the frames need to work with my client's face shape and overall colouring. For instance, if someone has a petite face and pale colouring, generally we’ll look for a smaller frame, with softer colours, rather than a big, bold black frame that will overpower their face.

 

“With three kids under seven I haven’t really travelled much in a while (except to Australia) but I think we can definitely draw inspiration from around us. Ultimately, though, it’s important to stay true to your own personal style and not be too influenced by what everyone else does.

 

“There is definitely so much choice nowadays when it comes to eyewear so, again, it comes back to choosing frames that work for you, not just because they are ‘on trend’. I do think there are a few cool trends to play with, though; I love the clear frames look – it's a bold, yet subtle statement (if that's possible) and tends to suit everyone. For sunglass frames, I’m a fan of the classics – an aviator is the first place I start with most clients as you can then choose a colour and size to suit almost anyone.”

 

 

Sarah Daniell is a freelance journalist and creative writer based in Auckland.